By boat from the sea

Agios Nikolaos of South Varassova

On the southern slope of Varassova, hidden in a fold of the mountain, at an altitude of about 80 m, there is a large natural cave. Its location is particularly well protected and controls the entrance to the Gulf of Patras, with a view towards the Aitolian side and Messolonghi. The cave can be accessed first by sea and then by following a short, if relatively steep path that reaches the entrance.

Its initial use by man can be traced back to prehistory, to the end of the Upper Palaeolithic and Mesolithic periods (about 20,000-10,000 years before present), when it seems to have been used as a habitation site. These traces of occupation have been found at a depth of several metres below the present level, while a prehistoric burial in a clay pithos was found during the systematic investigation of the Byzantine phase of the cave.

Inside the cave today there are ruins of a Byzantine organized ascetic complex dedicated to Agios Nikolaos; this was investigated between 1991 and 2001. It seems that during the years of its operation it hosted a small brotherhood. The complex comprised a chapel, two-storeys of cells, a three-storey tower-lookout in the north-west corner, the basement of which was used as a latrine, water tanks and a cemetery, while a smaller cave contained a hearth and a fireplace. A single wall, 1.20 m thick and 8-10 m high, served as a means of fortification. Alongside this, there was another small rampart, of unknown date.

The one-room chapel had dimensions of 9.50 x 6.15 m. and a semicircular apse. Today it is still in ruins. To the north of it there is a cistern – a reservoir for consecrated waters. The opening of the cave was blocked by a transverse two-storey building with cells and a small covered corridor, which formed a cloister. The ungrooved columns and parts of stone balustrades with relief decoration of crosses, branches and rosettes indicate a close connection with monuments of the Early Byzantine period. During the campaign of exploration, traces of about 20 pews and painted decoration were also found.

Smaller caves and niches open up to the north and south of the central cave. In the northeast, a niche is formed at a height of 12 m above the cave proper, which was accessed by a wooden staircase and served as an ascetic enclosure (or to protect the monks from pirates). The ‘incarcerated’ person would climb up there and stay for a long time to devote himself to prayer or the writing of an ascetic text. It is of particular importance that this is the only example of such an enclosure in Greece.

The building of the monastery dates back to the 10th century and it was in use until the 19th. Even now, once a year, at the beginning of July, the Divine Liturgy is celebrated there and the faithful are brought in by boats across the sea.